![]() When the 8 attachment bolts are removed, the bumper should be able to be pulled away from the car body. You may need to pry them over the sub-frames. Also, when reinstalling, these sandwitched together brackets (left and right side) might have become a little too close together and will not fit on the outside of the sub-frames. Note: The long bolts may be a little hard to get on/off due to clearance of the square nuts that are very close to the gas tank. These two bolts (per side) hold on two sandwitched together brackets (per side). On each side, one bolt (twards the front of the car) is very long and goes through the hollow square sub-frame and the other goes through a solid steel bracket welded to the end of that sub-frame. The two locations under the center tail light lenses on each side of the car has two bolts each to be removed. The upper one (per side) has a hidden captive nut. The lower one (per side) has a removable nut. Two bolts on each of these brackets attaches these bumper/brackets to the car. ![]() The location under the license plate has two small L shaped brackets (one on the left and one on the right). These 4 locations line up with the locations behind the bumper of the attachment bolts under the car that you will be removing. There are also two (one above the other) on the lower section of each side of the bumper that are about in line with the center tail light lens. You will see two that are close to and under the license plate area. Ther are visable round SS covered carrage bolts on the rear of the lower section of the bumper as viewed from the rear. I did this job by myself and used two plastic patio end tables with maybe a 2x4 or 1x4 or whatever is needed to get it close to the bottom of the bumper. Prepare to have something to be used as a support for when the last bolts are removes so that the bumper can "drop" onto something. If it is rusted bad, you can try to remove the U-Bolt around the tail pipe and leave the hanger in place on the bumper bracket. Remove the left and right attachment hanger bracket that supports the tail pipe. Remove the license plate light bulb socket from the chrome/lens part on the bumper. I had to slightlyīend the flanges on the lower tail light cove housing that fits Has been straightened before installation. Position of everything including brackets and maybe bumper if it ![]() Tight designed fit of the 2 bullet part of the bumper and changes Removal might be a little easier than reinstallation due to the Spray Penitrating oil on the the attachment bolts.Ĥ. All of the attachment bolts are accessable from under the car.ģ. The bumper comes off WITH all of it's brackets in place on theĢ. Without all of the details, since I did not write down my exact steps, I still can tell you the basics.ġ. Having someone assist you in lowering/pulling the bumper assembly away from the car once the fasteners are managed will be helpful, and don?t forget to disconnect the wires to the license plate lights, back-up lights, and the tail/brake lights.I removed mine for replating recently. It is best to soak everything several times over the course of a week with WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar rust dissolver.ĭepending on stubbornness, skill, available tools, determination, and rust levels, you may have to torch some of the fasteners on the outer brackets and replace with new? which I would do anyway. ![]() ![]() The outer brackets are a pain, each held to the box sections (frame?) just inboard of the muffler, by two nuts/bolts. The center section is attached with studs and nuts accessible from within the trunk flanking the filler neck tunnel, as well as the nuts directly below (vertical) at the lower edge of the bumper. The rear bumper assembly (Center Section, Q?s, and brackets) needs to be removed as a unit. ![]()
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